We start where most of Iceland's tourists start, at the Blue Lagoon. This is a set of large pools of turquoise water in the lava fields south of Reykjavik. The pools are full of slimy sulphurous sludge, which is supposed to be great for the skin. It's not too clever for the nose, believe me, especially when you dredge up handfuls from the bottom of the lake. Apparently it's mostly made of dead algae. Tina could hardly wait to get in there though.

This photo, taken with my old S40 camera (the water is corrosive), hasn't been Photoshopped too much - the water and the moss on the rocks are actually that colour.